Surfing wins! “Wins what?,” you might ask. I dunno, but this is the first week I’ve really tried to relax. Although I am still writing a research paper, I got to do the things that I haven’t had time for. Friday, I got vaccinations for Africa and then went rock climbing, Saturday, I helped my housemate move out and went to see 2 movies with friends. Sunday, I went to see a jazz show. Monday, I participated in my FIRST real jazz jam session. Tuesday, I went surfing (for the first time), met with a media gal about Africa, had dinner with the grad Christians, and had a beach bonfire with another group of friends (while watching some people set off fireworks and others burning American flags). Wednesday was the July 4 BBQ. Thursday, today, I went surfing again. I think the surfing score is currently: Pacific Ocean: 20, Sherol: 12.
A couple years ago, as I angsted about life, a friend told me I should surf. If I were to give my past self a good reason why, now that I’ve done it, this is what I’d say: “You should surf, b/c you think too much. And when you are surfing you’re not thinking about what else you need to do and you might even have trouble remembering what day it is. That’s because all your energy is invested in the moment.”
Zwak, one of my good brothers from Delaware is a surfer. My first mentor, my undergrad research adviser is a surfer. I moved to Santa Cruz, where every other person you run into is a surfer. It was only a matter of time…
Anyhow, besides sleeping, surfing is the only thing that shuts my mind off (music too, but only when I’m in the zone). It’s like, I couldn’t be stressed if I wanted to be, b/c all I can think about is, “how am I going to catch this next one?” Well, I’m only almost at the point where I could have a handle on “catching a wave” on my own; however, this is what I could gather from the 12 that I’ve caught with the help of my friend, Lawrence:
- Wetsuits are like magic. The water really isn’t that cold with a wetsuit, and it makes you feel like a superhero.
- It’s such a good feeling to be in the ocean, but your not just IN the ocean, you are strategizing and working alongside the ocean.
- That first moment of “can I stand up?” was a Peter and Jesus moment for me.
- Right before the wave comes, I do start to wonder whether ALL the variables are in a favorable state, but I’ve realized that (at least on the super long and stable board that I’ve used), I just have to stand up.
Uno is the name of the board that I used– the board that I used to catch wave numero uno to wave numero doce. I find it hard to think after exercise, in general, whether rock climbing or running. Surfing doesn’t deplete you all at once, as boxing did for me, but my mind (8 hours later) is still with the ocean (for lack of a better way to put it). In conclusion, my arms have had a rough week, but as long as they’ve got enough left to play my saxophone!